Ciamis: Priangan Regency Town and Its Old Kingdom
Ciamis is an inland Galuh heritage stop in eastern West Java
Ciamis is both a regency and its seat, the town of Ciamis, in the southeast of West Java. The region is inland rather than coastal. Until 1916 the regency was called Galuh, after the old kingdom whose ruler held court at Kawali, and that history remains the main reason to visit. The inscriptions at Kawali, the Karangkamulyan site east of town and the lake at Panjalu north of town each point to a different part of the same story. For the wider eastern region, the East Priangan guide sets the scene.
The regency borders Majalengka and Kuningan to the north, Tasikmalaya regency and Tasikmalaya city to the west, Banjar city and Cilacap regency in Central Java to the east, and Pangandaran regency to the south. On 25 October 2012 the southern districts, which reach the Indian Ocean, were separated to form Pangandaran Regency. The coast is therefore a separate destination with its own administration, and a visit to Ciamis is best planned as an inland trip. The name Galuh Regency was officially changed to Ciamis Regency in 1916, under Regent Sastrawinata, who had led the regency since 1914.
Kawali and Karangkamulyan, the Galuh sites north and east of town
Kawali is a district of Ciamis regency, lying roughly 16 km north of the town. The archaeological site of Astana Gede is in Kawali, and it holds stone inscriptions dated to around the late 14th century. The inscriptions are linked to King Niskala Wastu Kancana, who ruled from the Kawali palace of Galuh. A trip to Kawali is the natural place to start if your interest is the Galuh past.
Situs Karangkamulyan is an archaeological site in Karangkamulyan village, Cijeungjing district, roughly 15 km east of Ciamis town. It stands on the main road between Ciamis and Banjar. The site is associated with the Galuh kingdom and with the legend of Ciung Wanara, which is told among the Sundanese people. Because the site is on the road to Banjar, it fits well into a journey that continues east.
Panjalu and planning a day around Ciamis
Panjalu is a district of Ciamis regency. Its best-known feature is Situ Lengkong, a lake in Panjalu district about 24 km north-north-west of Ciamis town. Because Panjalu lies apart from Kawali and Karangkamulyan, it works best as a separate outing.
Kawali, Karangkamulyan and Panjalu sit in three different directions from the town, so choosing one cluster per day is more rewarding than trying to reach every site in one trip. The guide to getting around West Java covers the wider routes that serve the region.