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Indonesian Main Dishes: Savoury Plates and How to Choose Between Them

Indonesian main dishes are the savoury plates a meal is built around: a spiced stew or a grilled skewer, a fritter or a fried noodle plate, a porridge or a steamed parcel eaten with rice or on its own. In Indonesia the line between a main and a side is looser than in many menus abroad, so a dish counts as a main when a person could reasonably make a meal of it. The savoury plates are sorted by how they are cooked, each is explained by what it is built from, and there is a practical way to choose between them at a warung or a family table.

What counts as an Indonesian main dish

A main in Indonesian cooking is usually a protein or a starch with a strong sauce, served with rice or a carbohydrate of its own. Noodles and porridges count, because a bowl of either can be the whole meal. Fried fritters and crisp snacks sit in a grey zone, and the condiments that flavour everything else, such as fried shallots and dried anchovies, are better understood as parts of the meal than as dishes in their own right. The savoury plates covered here include both kinds, and the descriptions show which ones stand alone and which are meant to be eaten with something else.

One useful test is what happens when the plate arrives. If it comes with a pile of rice and a few side dishes, it is a main that wants company. If it comes in its own bowl or wrapped parcel, it is usually complete. Most visitors learn this within a day of ordering, and it saves a lot of guessing.

Steamed and wrapped plates: botok and its relatives

Steaming in a leaf is one of the oldest ways of cooking in the region, and the clearest example among these plates is botok. Its base is grated coconut from which the milk has already been squeezed, mixed with chili, salt, pepper, lemon basil and salam leaf. Tempeh, tofu, anchovy, fish, meat, mushroom or egg can go in as well. The mixture is packed onto banana leaf, wrapped tightly, pinned with a stick and steamed, then served opened with plain rice. The leaf keeps the coconut moist and carries the aroma of the spices into the filling, so the result is soft and usually pale rather than fried or dark.

The usual explanation for botok is that it grew out of coconut milk production, a way to use the residue that would otherwise be thrown away. The steamed parcel is opened at the table, so the aroma of the leaf and the coconut reaches everyone before the first bite. Botok is a close relative of pepes, the other steamed-in-leaf dish, but botok is set apart by its shredded coconut, which pepes usually does not contain. Botok also takes many names based on its filling, so a botok with anchovy is named after the anchovy and a botok with tempeh after the tempeh.

The same leaf-wrapping idea appears in bebek songkem, a Madurese duck dish steamed in banana leaves, and in nasi krawu, the rice plate from Gresik. Nasi krawu is built from rice, shredded meat known as daging suwir, serundeng (a dry toasted coconut and spice condiment) and sambal, and it is traditionally served on banana leaf in the style called pincok. Recognition of nasi krawu as intangible cultural heritage is a useful sign of how much local identity a plate like this can carry, even though it is a plain-looking dish.

Spiced stews and curries: gulai, kari and their cousins

The word gulai is the one most visitors meet first and misunderstand most often. In English it is sometimes called Malay curry or Indonesian curry, and it is a spiced stew rather than a curry in the Indian sense. The sauce starts with a ground spice paste, the bumbu, that usually includes turmeric, coriander, black pepper, galangal, ginger, chilli, shallot, garlic, lemongrass and cinnamon. Coconut milk is common, though some regional versions leave it out. The main ingredient can be poultry, beef, fish, offal or vegetables, and the sauce is usually yellow from the turmeric, although it can also be red, green or dark.

The regional range is wide. In Minangkabau cooking in West Sumatra, gulai is thick, yellowish and intensely spiced, and holy basil is treated as essential, so the dish sits at the centre of Padang cooking. Acehnese gulai kambing, the goat version, carries a bolder blend of spices with South Asian and Middle Eastern notes. On Java, gulai is lighter and thinner, closer to a soup, and is often made with mutton, beef or offal. Malay versions include coconut-thickened sauces that are finished with toasted coconut paste to add flavour and body. All of these are eaten with steamed rice, and the sauce is the reason the rice is there.

Within the gulai range, gulai daun singkong, the cassava leaf curry, shows how a humble green can carry a whole pot. Cassava leaves need a long simmer to lose their bitterness, and the spice paste does most of the work of making them taste like a main. Kari ayam, the chicken curry with coconut milk, is the one most visitors know first, because its sauce is milder and more rounded than a Padang gulai. Sop kaki kambing, the goat leg soup, is the broth-based cousin, where the bone and the slow simmer carry the flavour and the spice is more restrained.

Two entries deserve a note on method rather than ingredients. Ungkep is the Javanese way of simmering spices into food until they penetrate it, and it is the step that gives many dishes their depth before any frying or grilling happens. Bacem is a sweet braising method from Java, where sugar and seasonings are cooked down around the food until it turns soft and glossy. Knowing these two methods makes it easier to read a menu, because a dish labelled as simmered or sweet braised is telling you how it was made.

Porridge and rice plates for breakfast and lunch

Not every main is heavy. Tinutuan is a hot porridge from Manado and the surrounding North Sulawesi province, where it is a common breakfast. The base is a congee of rice cooked with pumpkin and sweet potato or cassava until it breaks down into a thick pulp. Corn kernels and leafy greens go in too, including kangkung, kemangi (lemon basil), bayam and melinjo leaves. The bowl is finished with fried shallots, fried tofu, spring onion and chili, and it is usually eaten with a sambal and a fresh chili condiment called dabu-dabu. Smoked or salted fish is often served alongside, and a noodle version called miedal also exists. Tinutuan has long been a home dish, made in family kitchens across the region.

The porridge is an example of a dish that is at once a breakfast and a complete main. A bowl with fish and sambal can carry a person through a morning of walking, and that is the way most local people use it. Visitors who expect a light congee are sometimes surprised by how much is in the bowl.

Tinutuan is not the only rice-based main with a clear regional identity. Bakmi godog, the Javanese boiled egg noodle soup, makes noodles into a whole meal in the same way, and semanggi Surabaya, the clover-leaf salad with peanut sauce, is a light main that works well in the heat. Sayur bening, the clear vegetable soup, is the everyday version of the same idea, a broth that sits beside rice and is often the simplest part of a home meal.

Fried plates and fritters: perkedel, mie goreng and the crisp side

Perkedel is an Indonesian fritter of Javanese origin, and its main ingredient is potato rather than meat. The usual method is to fry or bake potato slices before mashing, because boiling makes the mash too wet and the patties fall apart. The mash is mixed with spring onion and white pepper, often combined roughly one to one with ground meat or corned beef, though some versions contain little or none. Corn, tofu, fish and shrimp are common alternatives. The patties are shaped flat, dipped in egg and deep fried. A perkedel is usually served beside another main rather than alone, and it appears on many plates in Indonesian home cooking.

Bakmi goreng, or mie goreng, is the stir-fried noodle plate that most people know. Thin yellow wheat noodles are fried with garlic, shallot or onion, soy sauce, and a protein such as prawn, chicken, beef or meatball, then finished with chili, cabbage, tomato and egg. Indonesian versions usually add sweet soy sauce, fried shallots and sambal, which is the reason the noodles taste sweeter and more layered than a plain stir-fry. The dish is linked to Chinese Indonesian cooking, and it is sold at everything from roadside stalls to restaurants. Regional versions differ in ways a visitor can taste: Acehnese mie goreng uses thicker noodles and a curry-like paste, and the Javanese style leans on sweet soy and egg.

Fried plates that work more as sides than mains include bawang goreng, the fried shallots that go on almost everything, and ikan teri, the dried anchovies that are fried or cooked with sambal to add salt and crunch. Abon, the shredded dried meat floss, is a condiment with a long shelf life, and it is often used on rice or in a snack rather than as a plate on its own. Ayam kremes, the fried chicken coated in crisp batter bits, is a main that is served with rice and a sambal and is best eaten while still crisp. Babat goreng, fried beef tripe, belongs to the same crisp family, and it is a dish that many visitors either love or avoid, so it is worth ordering a small portion first.

Grilled and smoked plates: satay, sate usus and ikan bakar

Grilling is the most visible way of cooking in Indonesian street food, and satay is its best-known form. Satay is small pieces of seasoned meat or other ingredients threaded onto skewers and cooked over charcoal, usually served with a peanut-based sauce, rice cakes and pickles. The marinade commonly includes turmeric, which gives the characteristic yellow colour, and sweet soy sauce mixed with a fat. Skewers made of bamboo or coconut frond are soaked in water first so that they do not burn. The dish has many regional names, and that is why a satay from Madura, from Ponorogo, from Padang or from Bali can taste quite different from the next one.

Sate usus is the offal version, made with chicken intestine, and it is commonly sold as a side dish that a person might order beside rice or in a larger spread. Its appeal is the char on the outside and the chewy texture inside, and a good sate usus is cooked long enough to lose any harshness without drying out. Ordering one as a single skewer is a fair way to try it.

Ikan bakar, grilled fish from the Java coasts, is the seafood counterpart. Whole fish or fillets are rubbed with spice paste, grilled over coals and served with rice and sambal. Its flavour depends on the freshness of the fish and the strength of the smoke, so it is a plate to order from a stall that is busy and turning over its stock.

The smoking tradition shows up in ikan asap, smoked fish, which is a preserved main as much as a fresh one. Smoking was a way to keep a catch edible for longer, and the smoky, salty fish is still eaten with rice and sambal. A cousin of this method is bekasam, a fermented fish made by mixing fish with salt and a carbohydrate such as cooked rice, then letting it ferment. Bekasam comes mainly from South Sumatra, South Kalimantan and North Sulawesi, and it was traditionally made to keep a harvest from spoiling. Its flavour is sharp and savoury, and it is used as a condiment in fried dishes and chili sauces rather than as a plate by itself. Visitors should treat it as a strong ingredient and taste it in small amounts first.

Indonesian main dishes: how to choose between them

The simplest way to choose is by what you want from the meal. If you want something rich, slow and spiced, pick a gulai, a kari or a sop. If you want something soft and gentle, pick a botok, a tinutuan or a bakmi godog. If you want something crisp and fried, pick a perkedel, a mie goreng or an ayam kremes. If you want something smoky and charred, pick a satay, a sate usus or an ikan bakar. Most menus will mix all four styles, so the choice is less about the dish and more about the mood of the meal.

Spice is the other decision. A gulai from West Sumatra can be fierce, while a Javanese gulai is milder, and a Javanese botok is usually gentle. Sambal sits beside almost every main, and the safest way to manage heat is to add it yourself in small amounts. Sweet dishes such as bacem and sweet soy noodles tend to balance a fiery sambal, so ordering one of them alongside a hot plate is an easy way to keep the table comfortable.

Portion size matters too. Many mains are designed to be shared on a table with rice and several side dishes, so ordering one main per person is not always necessary. Ordering two or three different mains for a table, plus rice, lets everyone taste the range. Dishes such as babat goreng, the fried tripe, and ikan gurame, the gourami fish, are better as shared plates because they are rich or large.

Ordering Indonesian main dishes without guessing

Menus in Indonesia can be written in Indonesian, with a mix of regional names and cooking words. A useful habit is to learn the cooking word before the dish name. Goreng means fried, bakar means grilled, rebus means boiled, kukus means steamed, and gulai, kari and sop tell you the broth style. Once you know these, a menu item such as ikan bakar or ayam goreng gives you the method even if you do not know the dish.

If you are not sure, ask the server what the dish is made with and whether it is served with rice. Most cooks are happy to explain a plate, and many will bring a small taste of a sambal or a sauce before you order. The most common mistake visitors make is to order a porridge or a noodle plate expecting a snack, then find that it is a full meal. The second most common mistake is to order only one main for a table of four and to end up with too little rice.

Indonesian main dishes reward curiosity. The same ingredients appear in very different plates across the archipelago, so one good meal can teach you more about the country than a list of names. Start with a gulai or a botok, add a tinutuan or a perkedel for contrast, and work your way through the grilled and smoked plates as your confidence grows. For the wider picture of how these plates fit into daily eating, the food hub brings together regional cooking, snacks and drinks.