Gorengan: Indonesian Fried Snacks From Street Carts
Gorengan: Indonesian Fried Snacks From the Street Cart
Gorengan is the general name for the fried snacks sold across Indonesia, from carts on busy streets to stalls outside schools and markets. The word comes from goreng, the verb to fry, and it refers to the snack itself rather than to one recipe. A gorengan is usually a small piece of food dipped in flour batter and deep-fried in hot oil until crisp, then sold by the piece. If you want a cheap, quick taste of everyday Indonesian food, the cart on the corner is the place to start.
What the Word Covers
In daily speech, gorengan can mean any small fried item that a cart sells, and the word is used as easily for a snack in a street as for a plate on a warung counter. The items vary from seller to seller, but the principle is the same. Food is cooked in small batches and handed over while it is still crisp.
Gorengan is sold by the piece. A buyer chooses several items, points to them or says their names, and pays for each one. The carts are a cheap and common way to eat in Indonesia, and they are part of everyday street life.
The Usual Items on a Cart
Tempeh is one of the most common gorengan, a fermented soybean cake that is sliced and fried. Tempeh is made by binding soybeans into a cake with Rhizopus mould, a process that gives it a firm shape in hot oil.
Tahu goreng is fried tofu. Tofu is cut into squares or cubes and fried until golden. It is usually fried until golden.
Bakwan is a vegetable fritter made from shredded cabbage and carrot bound in a flour batter. Spoonfuls of the mixture are fried until the edges turn crisp, and bakwan is a classic of the cart.
Pisang goreng is fried banana, eaten hot. Singkong goreng is fried cassava, a snack that is also eaten on its own. Pisang goreng is often served with a hot cup of tea,
The Batter and the Oil
Most gorengan are dipped in a thin batter of flour before frying, and the batter gives a light, crisp crust. It is the main thing that sets one snack apart from another, and each seller has a method that they prefer.
The oil is hot and deep, and the snacks are fried quickly so that they stay crisp rather than turning greasy. A cart with a steady pan of food and oil that looks reasonably clean is a good sign that the snacks are fresh.
The Sauces That Go With Them
Gorengan are often eaten with a chilli sauce. Sambal is the chilli condiment used across Indonesia, and some carts offer a fiery sambal for buyers who want more heat. If you are unsure, ask for the sauce on the side and add it a little at a time, so you can judge the heat as you eat.
Kecap manis is a thick, sweet soy sauce, sweetened with palm sugar. Some buyers prefer it on fried snacks, and it is worth asking for it if you like a sweeter flavour.
How a Visitor Orders From a Cart
Point at the items you want or say their names. Tempe is tempeh, tahu is tofu and bakwan is the vegetable fritter. Ask for the chilli sauce if you want it, and say whether you want it spicy or mild. Ask for the snacks to be put into a paper bag or onto a small plate, depending on what the seller has.
Pay the vendor directly, and check the change before you walk away. Berapa means how much, or how many, and it is the word to use if you are not sure what to pay.
Where Gorengan Fits in the Daily Routine
Gorengan are eaten at many times of day. They are a common accompaniment to tea or coffee, and they are often eaten at home, on the street or at work.
Gorengan are easy to share. People often pass a plate of snacks around a table or along a bench, and eating them together is part of the pleasure. It is a good way for a visitor to join a local circle.
How the Snacks Differ From Region to Region
The items on the cart vary from one city to another, and some sellers add local touches to the batter or the sauce. The main items, such as tempeh, tofu and bakwan, are the ones most visitors will meet first, so a visitor who knows these three will recognise a cart almost anywhere.
A visitor who wants more on the soybean cake can read the tempeh in Bali page, which explains the fermented staple behind so many of these snacks. The fried banana has its own treatment in the pisang goreng in Bali page, which covers the variations you are likely to meet.
Buying for a Group From a Cart
When you buy for several people, pick a mix of items so that everyone finds something they like. A plate of tempeh, tofu, bakwan and a few pieces of fried banana covers most tastes, and the sauce can go in a small dish that everyone shares. Ask the vendor to bag the snacks in separate portions if you plan to eat them at different times. Carts run quickly during busy spells, so a clear order saves time for everyone waiting behind you in the queue.
Reading a Cart Before You Order
A cart tells you a lot before you taste anything. Look at the pan first. Food that has sat in oil for a long time darkens and turns soft, while fresh gorengan come out of the oil with an even colour and a crust that snaps when you touch it. Check whether the seller fries in small batches. A cart that cooks a few pieces at a time and refills the pan often is turning the food over quickly, which usually means the snacks are fresh.
Notice the queue as well. A steady line of customers is a sign that the cart has a regular trade, and a busy cart is often a safer bet than an empty one on a quiet corner. Watch how the seller handles the food, too. Tongs or a clean slotted spoon, a dry work surface and a seller who keeps the money and the food apart are all signs of a cart that is kept carefully.
Gorengan are sometimes sold from carts that stand at the roadside for a long time, so a little judgement about the surroundings is useful. A cart near a busy market or a school gate is likely to have a fast turnover. Neither is a rule, but both are worth noticing when you choose where to buy.
Who Gorengan Suits
Gorengan suit visitors who want a quick, cheap, local snack and an easy way into Indonesian street food. They suit people who enjoy fried food and a spicy sauce. They are less suitable for anyone who wants a light or healthy meal, or who avoids fried food.
Choosing a Cart and Staying Comfortable
Choose a cart where the oil looks clean and the food turns over quickly, so that the snacks are fresh from the pan. Eat gorengan while they are hot and crisp, because they lose their texture once they cool. Wash your hands before eating, or use the napkin or paper that the vendor provides.
If you have a sensitive stomach, start with one or two items and see how you feel. Carry water, since the chilli sauce and the fried food both make a drink welcome.
How the Snacks Are Made, in General Terms
The main items are coated in batter and fried in hot oil until golden and crisp. Vegetable fritters are made by mixing shredded vegetables into the batter and frying spoonfuls in the oil. Tempeh and tofu are sliced, dipped in batter and fried quickly. The fried snacks are served hot, with the sauce on the side.
Snacks and Dishes to Compare
Gorengan sit within a wider family of Indonesian snacks. The Indonesian snacks and sweets page covers the market treats that are sold alongside the carts, and the Indonesian fermented foods page explains tempeh and the other fermented staples that appear in gorengan. The Indonesian street food guide covers other snacks and meals sold from carts.
Gorengan can be eaten on their own or alongside a plate of rice, and the Indonesian sambals and condiments page explains the chilli relishes that give the sauce its character.
Useful Words at a Cart
Gorengan is the fried snack, and goreng is the verb to fry. Pisang goreng is fried banana, and singkong is cassava. Sambal is the chilli condiment, and kecap is sweet soy sauce. Pedas means spicy and mau means want. A short list of words like these is enough to order at most carts.
Related guides: Wijen, ayam penyet.