Asak Village: Rejang Dance and Penyepegan Sampi in Karangasem
Asak village is a Bali Aga village in Karangasem regency on the eastern side of Bali, close to Tenganan and Candidasa. Bali Aga villages are the older mountain communities of the island, which kept many of their customs while much of the island developed other customs. Asak is known for the Rejang Asak dance, its distinctive headdress, and an annual ritual called Penyepegan Sampi, which takes place in the eighth month of the Balinese calendar. This page covers where the village is, what its customs are, how it is reached and what a respectful visit looks like.
Where Asak village sits in Karangasem
Karangasem occupies the eastern end of Bali, and it is shaped by Mount Agung, the island’s highest volcano, which rises above the regency’s interior. The land falls from the mountain toward the sea, through hills, farmland and villages that have kept their own rhythms for centuries. Asak lies in this eastern landscape, a short distance from the coast and from the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, which is one of the most visited villages of its kind on the island.
The village is part of a group of Bali Aga communities in the region. These villages are frequently grouped together because of their shared ancestry, their customary law and their distinct ways of holding ceremonies. Asak’s neighbours include the villages of Bungaya, Subagan and Timbrah, and the relationships between the villages are part of the way the community is organised.
The Bali Aga way of life
Bali Aga villages keep a set of customs that differ from those of the lowland Balinese. Their architecture, their marriage rules, their land arrangements and their ceremonies follow older patterns, and in many cases the villages have preserved practices that have disappeared elsewhere on the island. Asak is one of the villages that has kept older adat practices largely unchanged, and the village’s life is organised around customary rules rather than the modern administrative structure alone.
For a visitor, this means that the village expects guests to observe its customs. Dress, behaviour and the way you ask for permission to enter sacred areas all matter, and the customary leaders of the village set the expectations for visitors. A respectful visit begins with understanding that the village is a living community and not a stage set for tourists.
The Rejang Asak dance and its headdress
The Rejang Asak is a dance performed by women, and it is one of the most distinctive forms of the rejang dances of Bali. Rejang dances are performed at temple ceremonies across the island, but the Asak version is recognised by its headdress, called the payas perong. The headdress is built with great care, and its shape and decoration set the Rejang Asak apart from other Balinese dances. Dancers move with slow, measured steps, and their concentration is part of the offering.
A second dance associated with the village is the Rejang Jepun, in which the dancers wear real frangipani flowers. Frangipani is a sacred flower in Balinese ceremony, and its use in the dance reflects the village’s close ties with temple life. Participation in the dances is linked to customary ceremonies, and young women take part once they reach the age set by the village.
Penyepegan Sampi, the annual ritual
The Penyepegan Sampi ritual takes place once a year in the eighth month of the Balinese calendar, which the Balinese call Sasih Kawulu. The ritual is part of a cycle of ceremonies that the village holds to protect the community and to keep harmful spiritual forces away. It involves the community’s youth and the traditional leaders, and it has a strong ceremonial character that marks it as a major event in the year.
The ritual is linked to rites of purification and to the wider cycle of Balinese ceremonies in which offerings are made to remove negative forces. Because the ritual involves animals, it is not a performance for visitors but a serious communal rite. A visitor who has the chance to witness it should be guided by the community, follow instructions closely and stay out of the way of the participants. Photography is allowed only with the permission of the village leaders.
Getting to Asak from Tenganan and Candidasa
Asak is reached by road from the coast, through the villages of eastern Bali. The most common approach is from Candidasa, the resort town on the south-east coast, or from Tenganan, which is reached by a short road inland from the main coastal route. Private drivers and hired motorbikes are the usual ways to reach the village, and the roads can be narrow and steep in places.
Many visitors combine Asak with Tenganan and Bugbug, another Bali Aga village in the area, on a single trek through the eastern hills. The walk between the villages is a good way to see the landscape, the terraced fields and the forest edges, and it gives a sense of how the communities are connected by path and custom. Plan the trek with a guide who knows the route and the village rules.
What a visitor can see
The village itself is set among trees and gardens, with traditional houses and shrines arranged in line with customary patterns. The temples are central to village life, and the shrines are the most important sacred spaces in the community. Walk through the village quietly, and do not enter a temple or sacred area without permission from the village.
The surrounding landscape is hilly and green, with the mountain visible to the north on clear days. The walk to and from the village offers views of the terraced fields, the forest edges and the sea in the distance. The best light for photographs is in the early morning and late afternoon, though photography of people and ceremonies should always be requested first.
Respectful visiting in a Bali Aga village
Visitors should dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, and wear a sarong and sash when entering temples or sacred areas. Ask the village leaders or your guide about the rules before you arrive, since some areas and ceremonies are closed to outsiders. Do not touch offerings, shrines or sacred objects, and keep your voice low near temples.
Visits are best arranged through a guide or a contact in the village, and they should be made with a clear purpose and a willingness to listen. Small gifts or contributions are frequently welcome, but they should be arranged through the village rather than handed out informally. Leave the village as you found it, and carry rubbish away.
The best time to visit
The most rewarding time to visit is during the ceremonial calendar, when the village is most active, but these times are also when access may be restricted. Visitors who come on an ordinary day will see daily life, the gardens and the houses, and they will have more space for conversation. Check the village calendar before you plan, and be ready to adjust your schedule to the ceremonies.
The dry season is generally more comfortable for walking, with clearer views of the mountain and firmer paths. The wet season brings lush greenery and heavy rain, and the paths can be slippery and muddy. Whatever the season, carry water and rain protection, and wear shoes suitable for steep, uneven ground.
Exploring the Bali Aga villages of the east
Asak is one of several Bali Aga villages that can be visited in the eastern hills. The Bali traditional villages guide sets out the principles of a respectful visit and the customs that apply across the group. Tenganan is the best-known of the eastern villages, and the Tenganan Pegringsingan village guide covers its weaving and its customs. Bugbug, a Bali Aga village near Candidasa, is covered in the Bugbug page, and the Bali Aga villages overview explains how these communities differ from the lowland villages of the island.
Frequently asked questions
Can visitors watch the Rejang Asak dance? Performances are linked to ceremonies and village life, so the timing depends on the village calendar. Ask your guide or the village leaders about when dances are likely to take place, and do not expect a performance on demand.
Is Asak open to visitors all year? Access depends on the ceremonial calendar and the decisions of the village leaders. Some days and ceremonies are closed to outsiders, so arrange your visit in advance and follow the guidance you are given.
Related guides: ngusaba desa, ngusaba nini, Timbrah Village: Bali Aga Settlement in Karangasem.